Italy Meets Brazil in Inspired Peabody Eatery

Cucina Italiana

Owners: Frederico and Marco Barbosa

One might think the combination of Italian cuisine with Brazilian pastries an odd pairing, but for Frederico Barbosa, owner of Cucina Italiana, nothing could be more natural. In fact, it’s in his blood.

Barbosa is of Brazilian and Italian heritage, first being raised in his mother’s native Brazil before the family settled in his father’s hometown of Naples, Italy. Throughout his early years, Barbosa was surrounded with the tastes and scents of both cultures and grew to love both types of food, especially creating dishes from each.

Barbosa brought his culinary knowledge and expertise with him to America over 20 years ago. He recalls his first restaurant: a little place in Danvers called Ponte Vecchio’s, which grew to become a five-star restaurant in great part due to the skills of head chef Barbosa. He has since headed up the kitchens of in Peabody, Cafe Italia in East Boston, Donatello’s in Saugus and many, many more.

Over the years, Barbosa has become known throughout the North Shore, not only because of his work in the kitchens, but for lending a hand to restaurants in need, helping them to recreate their menus using his unique gift of culinary creativity.

Most recently, Barbosa was called upon to assist Toscana’s in Peabody when the Italian restaurant wanted to completely reinvent its menu -- a move that has been met with resounding success; another recent project is the creation from soup to nuts of the menu at The Great Escape "prison themed” restaurant in Salem.

But it’s his next menu that is near and dear to his heart.

Four months ago, Barbosa and his youngest son Marcus opened their own restaurant on Walnut Street in Peabody, Cucina Italiana, a fusion eatery that features Italian inspired sandwiches and entrees, with Brazilian style pastries.

“To this community this building has always been 'the Brazilian Bakery,' even though it’s changed hands five or six times. But nobody’s really wanted to invest any money into it or make the real changes it needed to succeed,” explains the younger Barbosa.

So the pair decided to keep the Brazilian pastries, while adding their own Italian dishes, creating a cultural fusion of flavors.

And the Barbosas are no strangers to this particular location.

“We live right across the street,” Marcus Barbosa said with a laugh. “I grew up in this neighborhood and we see this building every day. We really believe in community."

"My father has had an Italian specialty for over 20 years and finally he was ready to open his own restaurant, so we came up with this crazy fusion idea,” he said.

It's an idea that seems to be paying off.

The Barbosas describe their menu as old Italian favorites -- with a twist. For instance, Frederico Barbosa began selling his chicken parmesan on a French bread roll, just to mix it up. Other specialties include meatballs and spaghetti, chicken broccoli and ziti and a Brazilian sandwich called “The Works,” which is a half pound hamburger patty with bacon, grilled corn, lettuce and tomato.

Brazilian treats such as the Martha Rocha, the coconut coated, cream-filled sweet bread pastry named for the former Brazilian Miss Universe, have delighted customers, as do the Brazilian chicken and cream cheese croquettes.

“For years this place served the Brazilian community, so those are my customers, and I grew up eating Brazilian pastries every day. Out of respect, I would not take that away, but try to add in the Italian foods that I love to cook,” said chef Barbosa.

And the reaction of the Brazilian clientele? Barbosa quickly responded: “They love it! I was surprised that the Brazilian people loved the Italian food, but they really loved it.”

The elder Barbosa is excited to now have the opportunity to serve customers his creations in his own restaurant. He has managed to keep his Brazilian customers coming in by not changing the menu too much, and his loyal followers know the quality of his food from his long-standing reputation in the city.

He says patrons are continuing to frequent the cafe in growing numbers, with many regular customers arriving each morning as the doors open at 5:30 a.m. to get their daily coffee, alongside their bagged lunch.

“I spent my whole life inside an Italian kitchen. I don’t cook for profit, I cook because I love it and I want to make people happy,” he said. "The best reputation for a restaurant is good food for a good price."

You can find Cucina Italiana at 76 Walnut St. and also on Facebook.